Uncorking the secrets of Geneva’s countryside

Michael Merne

For many people Geneva stops at the city limits – but thanks to a new guidebook, tourists and residents alike are discovering the canton’s rural treasures.

Published in English, “Touring Geneva Wine Country” offers a unique taste of the region’s picturesque landscape and flourishing vineyards.

“Geneva is not really perceived as a place that’s culturally very interesting,” said the guide’s American-Swiss author, Gail Mangold-Vine.

“But when you get out there and take a closer look, there is so much to do and see,” she added. “I’d like to see people start thinking of the countryside in a different way.”

Comprehensive

From where to stay to how to get there, the 170-page handbook offers both practical and quirky information on the dozens of charming towns and villages that dot the Genevan countryside.

“Whether you’re interested in rural architecture, wild orchids or sampling a bottle of Gamaret, you’ll find something of interest,” said Mangold-Vine.

Researched over a period of four years, the handbook offers a concise yet comprehensive look at wining and dining in rural Geneva.

It highlights both humble and upscale establishments – from the succulent yet affordable baked ham at the Auberge de Dardagny to the extensive but pricey wine list at the Domaine de Châteauvieux – the only Geneva restaurant with two Michelin stars.

For tourists, it offers offbeat suggestions for things to do and see beyond the city limits, such as folklore festivals and autumn walking tours.

It also provides a wealth of ideas for local residents – from where to take out-of-town clients for a business lunch to romantic weekend outings for two.

In addition, there is information on family and sporting activities, such as marionette plays, horseback riding or sailing on Lake Geneva.

Wine lovers

As the title suggests, the guide places heavy emphasis on the region’s flourishing wine industry.

Geneva is Switzerland’s third largest wine-producing canton after Valais and Vaud, and boasts the biggest wine-growing community in the country, Satigny.

Between eight and 12 million litres of wine are produced in the canton each year – about half red and half white.

But according to the author, surprisingly few people, even among the Swiss, are knowledgeable about homegrown vintages.

“When they hear the words ‘Swiss wine’ a lot of people simply think about Chasselas and Gamay,” said Mangold-Vine.

“They fail to realise that there is so much more variety out there now, and the spirit of creativity among Geneva’s vintners puts them in the vanguard of Swiss winemakers.”

Geneva is also leading the way when it comes to sustainable growing techniques, with the largest organic winery in the country.

Demand

Mangold-Vine hopes that by making the wineries more accessible to the public, the guide will help boost wine-based tourism in the region, while encouraging people to explore the countryside.

So far, she says public demand for the guide – on sale in bookstores across the canton – has “far exceeded” her expectations.

“We’ve had interest from Britain and German-speaking Switzerland as well,” she said.

“I’m also looking into getting the book translated into French since nothing like it exists for the francophone community.”

swissinfo, Anna Nelson in Geneva

Key facts

Over 25 grape varieties are grown in Geneva, among them Chardonnay, Merlot and Gamaret.
Geneva wines are labelled “terroir”, a reference to the type of soil and exposure of a vineyard.
Geneva was the first canton to introduce the “Appellation d’Origine Controlée” quality system.
The guide can be purchased by sending an email to [e-mail]