When the Alps’ ‘last great problem’ was solved

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John Harlin at home in Switzerland with his young family John Harlin III

Harlin, an air force pilot, was transferred to Germany with his family in 1959 John Harlin III

Eiger as seen from the Kleine Scheidegg saddle at the mountain’s foot AS-Verlag

John Harlin and his two climbing partners, Layton Kor (m) and Dougal Haston (r) AS-Verlag

(l to r) Kor, Haston and Harlin with their gear for their planned ascent John Harlin III

John Harlin in a snow cave John Harlin III

Karl Golikow ferrying a load ("Bomb") across the Second Icefield March 21, 1966: Layton Kor photographs Jörg Lehne jumaring up the fixed ropes towards the Spider. Head of Central Pillar below. AS-Verlag

March 25, 1966: Roland Votteler climbing the last metres of the Eiger March 25, 1966: Roland Votteler and Sigi Hupfauer on the summit AS-Verlag

March 26, 1966: The two teams of the Eiger Direct together at Kleine Scheidegg (from left): Harri Frey, Roland Votteler, Karl Golikow, Chris Bonington, Layton Kor, Peter Haag, Jörg Lehne, Günter Schnaidt, Sigi Hupfauer, Rolf Rosenzopf, Günther Strobel, Dougal Haston, Peter Gillman, Mick Burke AS-Verlag

March 25, 1966: Harlin’s funeral procession in Leysin John Harlin III

A scene from the funeral with Harlin's wife and children (John Harlin III 2nd from l) AS-Verlag

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It was 50 years ago on March 25 when five exhausted climbers achieved what no one had before – summited the Eiger North Face following the most direct route. The price was high: the ‘direttissima’ claimed the life of team leader John Harlin.

The record nowadays for climbing the imposing 1,800m high wall that casts its dark shadow over the alpine resort of Grindelwald is less than two and a half hours.

In 1966, Harlin – an American – assembled a small team, limiting the number of climbers to three to ensure speed. His aim was to follow a vertical line straight up to the summit in about 10 days. A competing eight-man German party arrived at the foot of the mountain around the same time in February, and, according to Harlin’s British team member Chris BoningtonExternal link, had enough food and provisions to last three weeks.

Bad weather made treacherous what were in ordinary circumstances very difficult climbing conditions. It became known as the slowest race on earth as the teams lived out of snow holes and pulled up equipment, the two sides scratching and crawling their way up the mountain face. Members would even descend for rest at the hotels near the base of the mountain, before climbing back up again.

On March 22, the Eiger North Face – where so many ambitious climbers had died in the preceding decades – claimed the life of Harlin when he fell about 1,200m to his death after his rope broke.

A member of Harlin’s team, Dougal Haston – who had by now joined forces with some of the Germans – decided to press on. He and four of the Germans reached the summit three days later, more than a month after they had set out. They named the route after the American in his honour.

Harlin’s son, John Harlin III, along with some members of the German party, travelled to the foot of the Eiger to commemorate the events of 50 years ago.

(Text: Dale Bechtel, pictures: John Harlin III collection/AS-Verlag, picture editor: Christoph Balsiger)