From Aromat to absinthe: this is the taste of Switzerland
Epiphany cake, Emmental cheese, or cervelat: Switzerland’s culinary heritage is as diverse as its landscapes. A new encyclopaedia delves into this rich tradition, exploring how different flavours shape Swiss identity. But how distinct are these tastes across the country?
The stories of 453 products have recently been added to the encyclopaedia Switzerland’s Culinary Heritage. To provide context, author Paul Imhof begins his collection with a panoramic view – from an aeroplane. From above, he describes a meeting point of Mediterranean, Atlantic, and continental cultures converging on Switzerland. This cultural crossroads is mirrored in the nation’s food, shaped by diverse people, languages and flavours.
Strict inclusion criteria
Classics such as Engadine nut cake, Emmental cheese, Epiphany cake, absinthe, cervelat, and Aromat are all featured. However, not everything considered “typically Swiss” made the cut. “You can’t include every bar of chocolate,” says Imhof.
To be included, a product must tell a story. It also needs to be at least 40 years old – long enough for one generation to pass its heritage to the next. Additionally, “it must still be produced, traded and consumed”, Imhof explains.
Paul Imhof’s encyclopaedia marks the end of a chain of events for the time being: around 20 years ago, the Culinary Heritage of Switzerland association was founded on behalf of the federal government. Research teams across the country tracked down traditional local specialities and collected them on a website. Paul Imhof wrote individual publications for each language region until the complete edition, Switzerland’s Culinary Heritage, was published in 2024.
Influences on Swiss food culture
Imhof, a former Tages-Anzeiger journalist, attributes the diversity of Swiss food to the country’s varied landscapes. The Alps, lakes and rivers influence local diets, creating a “concentrate of landscapes” reflected in the cuisine.
Exploring Swiss culinary heritage is also a journey through time, influenced by shifting topographies and populations. Imhof organises his work by canton and product category, providing a structured yet dynamic guide.
Beyond fondue and rösti
Surprisingly, there’s no mention of fondue or rösti. Imhof explains that other publications have thoroughly covered traditional dishes and recipes. Indeed, the Fülscher cookbook and Tiptopf remain staples in many Swiss households.
A treasure chest of flavours
Imhof’s latest edition is a hefty tome – 1.67 kilos with a shimmering gold cloth spine. The gold lettering reads Panoptikum des Ess- und Trinkbaren (A panopticon of food and drink). Inside, densely written pages are accompanied by mouth-watering illustrations, making Switzerland’s Culinary Heritage a veritable treasure trove.
Rich in anecdotes and eloquently written, Imhof weaves together Swiss linguistic and cultural history. A former Singapore correspondent, Imhof has always been more interested in a nation’s cuisine than its political speeches. This curiosity continued in Switzerland, where he gained recognition for his columns on kitchens and wine cellars. “It would be foolish to forget centuries of knowledge just because everything can now be industrially produced,” reflects the 72-year-old author.
The common thread: preservation
Switzerland’s culinary diversity defies a singular “Swiss product”. According to Imhof, what unites the nation’s food culture is a method: preservation. “In mountain regions, you couldn’t just carry milk down to sell in a shop,” he explains. “You had to process and preserve it.”
Through these stories, Imhof’s book preserves living traditions shaped by the landscape, a history rooted in agriculture, and the spirit of the people. These traditions are not static – they continue to evolve.
“It’s a process,” says Imhof, leaving readers wondering if another edition might follow.
Paul Imhof: “Switzerland’s culinary heritage. A panopticon of food and drink”. 774 pages. Echtzeit Verlag, 2024.
Translated from German by DeepL/amva/ts
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