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A crux grows complicated

I’m typing this in a tent well above 3,000 meters in the rain, having watched all the cliffs and slopes above avalanche with water-logged snow.

Today was short but hard and given the weather we sure feel lucky. The snow was soft on the glaciers, so our feet would sink in and even going across flats felt like going uphill. And it was hot, too, which feels ironic now with thunderstorms and rain. After watching so much snow on the cliffs and slopes slide, we decided to camp early and climb up to the Col du Tour Noir at 3am when the snow is relatively frozen. It would have been much too dangerous in the heat of the afternoon. And that was before we had any idea it would rain. So while we may have made a lucky call, we won‘t be so lucky if the rain doesn‘t stop soon. Tomorrow has by far the most technical climbing, perhaps of the whole trip, and we really need good weather–that lasts.

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SWI - a branch of Swiss Broadcasting Corporation SRG SSR

SWI - a branch of Swiss Broadcasting Corporation SRG SSR