Top chef reveals ingredients for success

Chef Philippe Chevrier puts the finishing touches to one of his dishes Keystone

Those searching for the very pinnacle of Swiss gastronomy are advised to travel deep into the Geneva countryside, amid the vineyards of Satigny.

The Domaine de Châteauvieux, an old stone mansion in the tiny village of Peney-Dessus, is not easy to find. But it’s well worth seeking out because this is where one of Switzerland’s finest chefs, Philippe Chevrier, plies his trade.

Forget rösti and fondue. This is Swiss cuisine at its most sophisticated. Even the most knowledgeable palates are sure to be aroused. But their owners must be sure to book in advance; they will not be able to simply turn up and get a table.

It seems like stating the obvious, though it is something that some cooks overlook, but at the very heart of Chevrier’s philosophy is flavour. Beyond the luxurious ingredients – the lobster, partridge, caviar, scallops and truffles – taste is paramount.

He says that his cooking is based on an uncompromising belief in using only the very best seasonal ingredients.

“We use only top quality produce, and then we try not to bury it in lots of other flavours,” Chevrier says. “At the end of the meal, we want the customer to remember what he has eaten.”

Chef of the Year

For the past four years, the prestigious GaultMillau restaurant guide has awarded Chevrier 19 points out of a possible 20, and this year, in recognition, decided to name him Chef of the Year.

Chevrier was one of seven chefs who received the magical figure of 19 points. GaultMillau never give the full 20 points, and it is interesting to note that the guide says that Chevrier “never stops improving”.

“I wouldn’t say I’m the best,” Chevrier says modestly, “the overall mark reflects not just the food, but also the service, the ambience and so on.”

“In any case, cooking is like painting. Everyone has his own tastes, and each chef has his own distinctive style,” he told me during my visit to his busy but well-ordered kitchens.

Chevrier’s style could best be described as light classical French – but with a generous dash of Geneva: “This whole region sets great store by the quality of its food and wine, and I like to reflect that,” he says.

Mouth-watering

Alongside this patriotism, there is innovation within a classic tradition: one can choose such creations as saddle of chamois with elderberry juice; sea bass and lemongrass with crab and lemon butter ravioli; hot soufflé caramelised with pears and Williamine; chocolate and mango millefeuille.

My mouth was not just watering, but dribbling embarrassingly.

Each creation is the product of a hunch, based on years of experience, and then lots of painstaking experimentation.

“A lot of it is down to team work,” Chevrier says, pointing to some of the 18 specialised cooks in his kitchen, which the chef describes as being “like a submarine”.

And he admits to being a demanding captain: “We have to ensure that the work is well done and that the customer is satisfied.”

When one considers what the customer is paying for his sautéed frogs legs and muscat squash flavoured with thyme, his slice of zander roasted with apple and endive in a light mustard sauce, or his warm tart of dried plums and hazelnuts served with armagnac ice cream, that is only reasonable. The six-course gourmet menu will set you back around SFr170 per person.

The 40-year-old Chevrier had a thorough apprenticeship before finally becoming his own boss. Having started out at Geneva’s Beau-Rivage Hotel at the age of 15, he went on to work with top chefs in France and Germany. Finally he came to Crissier, near Lausanne, where he learnt his trade at the elbow of the legendary Fredy Girardet.

Cigar room

The Domaine de Châteauvieux is a celebration of flavour, and it is perhaps a logical extension of this concept that Chevrier has decided to create a separate smoking room where the best cigars can be selected and savoured with a fine brandy or malt whisky.

“I love smoking cigars. A cigar is wonderful after a meal – but it’s unpleasant while you’re still eating,” Chevrier explains. “It’s for that reason that we’ve tried to completely exclude smoking from the restaurant.”

Satigny is the largest wine-growing commune in Switzerland, and appropriately, the house lies in the middle of some of the finest vineyards in the region. It comes as no surprise that Chevrier takes pride in including plenty of local wines on the Domaine’s extensive wine list.

The passing seasons are important to Chevrier, not only with regard to the ingredients for his creations, but also the setting. As the icy wind, known locally as the “bise”, blew down off the Jura Mountains, the Domaine with its cosy combination of the rustic and elegant, seemed the ideal refuge.

The Domaine de Châteauvieux used to form part of Peney Castle, which has long since disappeared. But what remains is impressive. The restaurant itself is spacious with an elegant wooden decor and paintings on stonewalls.

For those that eat at the Domaine in the evenings and cannot face the drive home, there are 17 guest rooms and apartments available. The marvellous sight of the Jura and the surrounding vineyards – and the memory of one the best meals they’ll probably every have – awaits them.

by Roy Probert