Young brands aim to make mark at Geneva Watch Days fair

Luxury watchmakers display artisanal craft in the digital age Keystone / Salvatore Di Nolfi

The Geneva Watch Days, which runs the whole week, brings together 71 watch brands, the majority of which are emerging labels.

For these companies seeking visibility, the event offers a relatively accessible entry point into the world of luxury, where the “Swiss Made” label remains an asset but doesn’t guarantee success.

Young brands are flocking to Geneva: 60% of the brands present are less than 25 years old. Companies come seeking visibility, to meet clients and build networks, with an average investment of less than CHF50,000.

This sum is relatively modest for the sector. “If you go to a classic watch fair, you’re looking at spending at least CHF300,000 to CHF400,000. And we’re talking millions when it comes to major fairs,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, president of the Geneva Watch Days.

Exhibitors also have a great deal of freedom, choosing between hotel suites and spaces set up directly on the docks.

To stand out in a constantly evolving luxury market, young brands are focusing on expertise and craftsmanship. The “Swiss Made” label continues to embody a guarantee of quality, even as digitalization and artificial intelligence (AI) gain ground.

“Today, with AI, it feels like everything is digital,” said Cédric Joos, brand manager at Hautlence. In this context, he believes that “artisanal crafts will increase in value in the coming years.” The quality of service also matters because, in luxury watchmaking, the purchase remains strongly linked to emotion and the relationship with the brand.

The prestige of the Swiss label is not uniform, however. “It is losing some of its strength in certain markets, particularly in Europe. In others, such as the Middle East or China, it is still very important,” notes Babin.

This observation was shared by some visitors. For one customer interviewed by Swiss public broadcaster RTS, “Swiss made” remains synonymous with quality, particularly in the luxury sector. Production in Switzerland also remains a criterion likely to appeal to some European collectors.

Despite the sector’s transformations, the Swiss watch industry remains dynamic. Its exports rose by nearly 10% in July, exceeding CHF2.6 billion. This is an encouraging sign for an industry in which emerging brands are now seeking to establish themselves.

Translated from German, sub-edited by Matthew Allen/ds